Hitting a Draw

Once you've mastered the RST swing method, you realize that, due to the simplicity of the swing, controlling and manipulating ball flight is very simple.

  • Pulling with the left hand is what controls the club face angle at impact and club face angle is the biggest factor in determining ball flight direction
  • If you move the ball slightly back, you will be swinging slightly from the inside
  • Bow the left wrist a little bit at the top - just a few degrees - to come down slightly shut
  • Finally, adjust your release depending on the type of draw desired

64x64
Robert
when i add bow to the wrist at the top to hit a draw i top the ball. how can i not top the ball?
February 5, 2020
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Robert. Topping the ball is much more common with the fulcrum. Take a look at Moving the Fulcrum Video.
February 5, 2020
64x64
Mark
I've tried to play for a draw a couple times by moving the ball back a little bit but ended up hitting it quite fat, taking out a big divot and hurting my hand. Any thoughts what I could be doing wrong? Also, would it be fair to say that when hitting a draw your back will be more towards the target at impact than when playing for a fade or straight hit? Cheers.
October 4, 2017
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Mark. Yes, your back will tend to be or feel like it is staying closed to the target longer. Sounds like you are throwing the club early while trying to get the wrist to rotate. Make sure you don't speed up the release at the last second. Gradual rotation.
October 4, 2017
64x64
Mark
Cool. Getting there... gotta work on aiming a bit more now and knowing how far the ball will draw. What's the best way to adjust the amount of draw? Is it amount of bowed wrist at the top, amount of closed face in takeaway, to do with release, ball further back... a combination, perhaps? Also, depending on the course, what percentage of your shots are intentionally shaped vs straight hits. Thanks again. I'm having heaps of fun shot shaping.
October 18, 2017
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Mark. Take a look at the 9 Days to Amazing Ball Striking Series. It takes practice and adjusting your release. You may slightly play around with ball position and closed takeaway. But, practicing different degrees of release and pace will get you there. Every shot you can hit straight. Work the ball when you need the advantage of moving away from trouble or getting to tough pins.
October 19, 2017
64x64
Krishna
Why do my draws start turning rightaway while those of a pro do only later in the ball flight?
November 3, 2016
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Krishna. It sounds like you are steep with a shut face entering the strike. I would work on shallowing out the path and then curve the ball. Over the Top Stick Drill Video.
November 3, 2016
64x64
T David
If I place the ball back in my stance, it would seem that I have a high chance of skulling the ball if I am shifting my weight properly over to the left. Do I need to change my weight shift then too?
October 15, 2016
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Dave. I wouldn't play with the weight shift too much. The key is to not spin or over drive with the body to allow the face to square or close sooner. Take a look at the 9 Days to Amazing Ball Striking Section Day 2 Draw for more info.
October 16, 2016
64x64
Marc
Dear Craig, if I hit a straight 8I 165 yards with no cupping or hinging of the club, what type of distance should I expect with a push draw, straight draw and a fade? I struggle to see the impact these different shots have on my distances. Best, Marc
June 21, 2016
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Marc. It would be hard to say without looking at your numbers for the stock shot. Typically, about 5-8 for the draw and a few yards loss for the fade. But, understanding how to control the variables better you can tweak the yardages to your liking.
June 21, 2016
64x64
David
Hi Craig, Prior to joining RST, my way to draw/fade the ball would be to re-set my grip (stronger for a draw and weaker for a fade), re-set my stance and carry out a normal swing. What are the reason's you do not advocate this - is it because it does not teach you to control the face during the release which would encourage a better sense of club face orientation?
March 19, 2016
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello David. Yes, because I would want you to have a better awareness of face orientation without having to change too many variables for one shot. Take a look at the 9 Days to Amazing Ball Striking Series for some help on bigger movement.
March 19, 2016
64x64
Shlok
Doing what the video talks about, where should the ball start, given that the face primarily dictates that? When he says that keeping the ball back in the stance and releasing early starts the ball right I dont get it. Should a shut face, cause it to start straight and not right?
March 18, 2016
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Shlok. The ball when not altering the path too much will start straighter, then a draw flight. For more advanced movement take a look at Day 2 Draw in the 9 Days to Amazing Ball Striking Section. When the ball is back it will be harder to get the face to a shut or square position. Working on the proper arc and rotation the face will tend to be slightly open. Think about like a door before it shuts would be impact.
March 19, 2016
64x64
David
Great video! any different adjustments for hitting a draw with a driver or would you apply the same approach as you outlined in this video?
August 22, 2015
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello David. Take a look at the Driver Launch Angle Video.
August 24, 2015
64x64
ben
I have been hitting slight draws and have good distance. I began duckhooking the ball and cannot make the adjustment to stop this. Please give me some drills to neutralize this action. Thanks, Bthaone
June 14, 2015
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Ben. Are you duck hooking it because of over-cooking this drill? If so, even it out with the Day 1 and Day 3 Video in the 9 Days to Amazing Ball Striking Section. Get back hitting it straight and off setting with knowing how to fade.
June 15, 2015
64x64
gary
I ment to ask rotate earlier.
August 9, 2014
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Gary. Yes, rotating the face earlier and greater. Take a look at Day 2: Drawing the Ball Video for more info: http://www.rotaryswing.com/videos/bonus-series/9-days-to-amazing-ball-striking/day-2-hitting-the-draw
August 9, 2014
64x64
gary
When you say, "release a little more", do you mean faster rotation of the left wrist or rotate faster?
August 9, 2014
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Gary. Yes, rotating the face earlier and greater. Take a look at Day 2: Drawing the Ball Video for more info: http://www.rotaryswing.com/videos/bonus-series/9-days-to-amazing-ball-striking/day-2-hitting-the-draw
August 9, 2014
64x64
Chan
Instead of bowing the wrist slightly on the downswing to help hit the draw, could you just close the face slightly at setup and then swing normal?
August 1, 2014
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hello Chan. You could, but you would be giving up on speed and proper releasing of the club. If you set the club up shut. You would have to return to that exact same position at impact. Address and impact are two different animals. One is a static position, the other very dynamic. If you release the shut club face and release it. Left-Left ball. If you hold off the rotation to leave the face the same. You are slowing down the release too much. Giving up on speed and physics.
August 1, 2014
64x64
Chan
Thanks, Craig. That makes sense. So, is the best thing to do to learn to hit a draw is just follow Chuck's advice and practice?
August 2, 2014
64x64
Craig (Certified RST Instructor)
Hey Chan. Use the Draw Videos in the 9 Days to Amazing Ball Section (Bonus Series). Get that lead hand control.
August 3, 2014
64x64
Greg
Just a follow up to my last question. When I chip and pitch, I seem to be able to vary the heights of the flight, but when I take a full swing, I can't seem to get the ball flight down. I'm doing something wrong with my right hand to cause the left wrist to break down slightly at high speeds. If I try to hold the left wrist firm, I feel like I'm shoving the hands and not turning them over.
May 27, 2014
64x64
Chris (Certified RST Instructor)
Greg, sounds like you are on the correct path of understanding how the right hand is causing the lead hand to break down. Check out 5 minutes to a perfect release in the program downswing section and work slowly through the drill outline to train you how to control the face with the lead hand. Good luck.
May 27, 2014
64x64
Greg
How does the right hand add speed if it is not pushing? I'm not sure how the two hands work together.
May 27, 2014
64x64
Chris (Certified RST Instructor)
through rotation and release of the angle of the right arm in the hitting area. We have a series of videos coming out in the next week or so discussing the function of the wrists and forearms working together.
May 27, 2014

                As you've learned in our knuckles down, logo down video, really what we're trying to do to control the club face is all done with that pulling motion of the left hand. It's very important for that to be trained to keep the club face moving in the correct direction. To keep the club face stable because that's the dominant hand in controlling the club face, in terms of being able to control it very easily.

                A simple way to think about this is if you're pulling a pull cart down the fairway. You know, the pull carts that you pull behind you or push in front of you, depending on how you use it, that carries your clubs for you so you can walk and not have to carry your clubs on your shoulder. If you pull that down the fairway, it will track directly behind you and basically move in almost a perfectly straight line because it's always moving towards the force of movement. Now, when you push something, you get behind it, which is the more dominant motion, if you're not pushing directly behind the center of gravity, it's always going to turn. It's going to be moving down the fairway like this. If you watch somebody pushing one, it will have a zig zag pattern to it, relatively, compared to someone who's just pulling it. It will follow directly in a straight line.

                That's why we learn to use the left hand. The same thing is true in golf. If I start pushing at it, while it's a more dominant motion, if everything's not dialed in there perfectly, it's going to be very hard for me to control the club. It tends to break the left wrist down and make it impossible to control the loft on the club face, so you can't control your trajectory. Everything we're doing is predominantly left hand, when it comes to club face control.

                As you look at drawing the ball, we need to start understanding exactly how that works and look at making a couple little adjustments to draw the ball. It's very, very simple to hit a draw. A couple things that we're going to adjust. First of all, at the top of my swing ... Let me back up a step. At impact, I know that my club face needs to be relatively shut in relation to where I'm wanting to hit the ball. There's a couple things to think about here. First of all, understand that the vast majority, the most influencing factor of the initial ball flight direction is the club face angle. The path has about 20% club face and has about 80% roughly. A little bit different in there because the ball compresses on the face, and so on. If you just think that the majority of the starting direction of your ball is going to be club face angle, you can manipulate the path a little bit, in order to get the ball to start a little bit to the right and draw back.

                It just depends on the type of draw that you want to hit. If you want to hit basically a straight draw, where the ball is basically start where your path isn't going to change. You're not going to try to swing more into out to get it to start to the right, then very little adjustment your swing needs to make, other than the club face angle and the release. You can set up dead square, just like you always do. Make your normal swing path as square. Just understand that the ball's going to start a little bit left of your target line and draw further left.

                If you want to manipulate it and get the ball to start slightly to the right of your target line and draw back, you have to make an adjustment in set up. All that means is just moving the ball back slightly in your stance. That will get you to the point where you're coming slightly from the inside. Then all we need to do is worry about club face angle. It's a very, very small adjustment. Even just moving the ball back an inch in your stance, maybe two, will get you to the point where you're coming fairly quite a bit more from the inside than you normally would be and being able to hit a draw that starts to the right and comes back.

                From there, it's all just worrying about the club face angle. That's simple. The RST swing pattern is such a simple swing that you're really doing so little manipulation, that you have the freedom to start adjusting what you do with the club face angle. Long story short, the only two things that I'm going to do different in my swing, other than the setup position, is A, at the top, I'm going to let my left wrist bow just a little bit more. Right now, this would be at the top of my position, swing normal. My wrist is really flat. I would let my wrist bow slightly. That goes back into that knuckles down, logo down video. As I go to the top, because this is going to give me a little it of a head start on getting that club face to be a little bit shut in relationship to my target line than where it would be normally. Go to the top and let my left wrist feel. It's just slightly bowed. You can see, there's just a tiny little change. We're only talking a few degrees here.

                As I start coming down, now what I want to ... Now, notice the club face is a little more shut than where it would normally be. It'd normally be about here. Now, it's a little bit more shut. My wrist is a little bit more bowed. The only thing I'm going to do from here is just let the club release a little bit more. I'm coming from the inside a little bit. The ball would be back in my stance. I'm going to release it, depending on how much I want it to draw. If I want to hook it really hard, I'm going to bow it more and release it more. If I don't want to draw it so much, it's going to be a little bit more gradual.

                Very, very simple changes, once you put all the other pieces together in your swing to draw the ball. Work on just getting to the top, adjusting your wrist just slightly. Let it arch a little bit more. You're going to roll those knuckles in a little bit early. Then start to release the club a little bit more as you come through. Then you'll get to draw the ball, no problems. 

We're after one thing: Real Results - Real Fast. And that's exactly what our members achieve. And that's why they say the AXIOM is: Mind-blowing. Game changing. Revolutionary.

Check it out ...

Here at RotarySwing, talk is cheap and the proof is always in the pudding. Come see the massive transformations we can achieve together in your swing.

See for yourself ...

From beginner to pro, we have what you need to get you where you want to go.

See how inside ...

RotarySwing was founded out of frustration with the current state of golf instruction. Quinton knew a better way had to exist to learn this game we all love.

Learn more ...